Gourmet Paris

Emmanuel Rubin is not a celebrated Parisian food columnist for nothing--the man can take a handful of words, wrap them around a dish such as calf's head, and have you instantly drooling. In this second edition of a most unusual guide, Rubin leads you dish by dish through the full range of Parisian restaurants, from the unassuming to the celebrated, from the impossibly snobbish to those that haven't even opened yet but are anxiously awaited. The bulk of the book is devoted to an alphabetical listing of "What to Eat in Paris," beginning with African Cuisine, Andouillette, and Antipasti, and ending with Wines and World Food. Here's a sampling of the gastronomic delights you'll find: for the andouillette (chitterlings sausage) you might want to try Le Passage, a cutting-edge wine bar lost in an alleyway near the Bastille. For crêpes suzette, Maison Prunier is a spectacular 1930s temple with a Grand Marnier crepe flambé "that enjoys the most civilized of treatments." Le Bistro Savoyard is a mere slip of a tavern, off-beat but lovable with a "flowing fondue as smooth as the Savoy wines from the cellar." And Thomieux has been "a constant member of the snail elite" for over 50 years. Gourmet Paris also includes a Restaurant User's Guide, which recommends places to dine by theme. In the mood for company? Try communal tables. Desperately trying to find someplace child-friendly? Rubin knows where the few spots are. He also has ideas for tables with a view, the best museum restaurants, the best gay restaurants, best places with music, the best places to eat solo (and "transform it into a deliciously selfish experience"), and so on. And for those game to take on the haunts of the rich and famous, Rubin tells you how to navigate the tangle of codes and rites which determine the sought-after tables and who gets them. (If, for example, the staff at Le Jules Verne offers to seat you in the "Trocadero" room rather than the VIP "Paris" room, "proffer the observation that sunsets get you down. They'll understand.") With reviews of over 1,000 restaurants and 60 dishes, Gourmet Paris is sure to lead you to a scrumptious meal whatever your mood or preference. --Lesley Reed